Karamuak, Tongod (Central Sabah)

By Flanegan

Hello… Im back from Tongod, instead of staying there for 3 nights. My trip to Central Sabah only ended up for 24 hours. Because one of my boss need to head back to KK for some personal reason. He chose me to follow him, and the others will remain there continue to document the life of Herbalist for a day.

The only way you can visit or get into Tongod is via Road Access, it takes about 5 hours using a small car such as Kembara to reach Tongod Town. And another 2 hours to get into central Sabah Kg Karamuak or Kuala Karamuak (the local here pronounce Karamuak as Keramok).

Telupid – Tongod New Road.

From Kota Kinabalu to Ranau takes around 2 hours, then we had a small break for 30mins+ then continue our destination to Telupid for another 2 hours. Make sure to fill in your petrol/diesel in Ranau because Telupid don’t have any Gas Station. If your car use lots of Petrol, bring extra or 2 huge bottle to fill in the gas. Just incase you drive halfway your car suddenly out of Gas. Fun become Not Funny anymore.

Pekan Tongod

Once reach Pekan Tongod, we decide to have another cup of coffee at one of the restaurant. Everyone thought that Kg Keramauk is only a short distant away from here.

But we’re damn wrong…. We have to drive offroad, pass by lots of Palm Oil Estate and also Jungle with no communication signal and only hope someone pass-by to tell us where is “Keramauk”.

Never ending road to Karamuak.

Driving offroad on Kembara gives you free butt massage or whole body because the car keep on moving up and down nonstop for 2 hours. The road is gribble, lots of sharp rock and makes us so worried that the car’s tyre suddenly puncture in the middle of nowhere with no phone signal. Is not funny! But 1 hour 15mins later, we saw a small signboard says “Simpang ke Karamauk”. Everyone in the car feel so relieve, but the road get into Keramauk haven’t end yet.. It takes 45mins from the junction into Keramauk until we saw houses and villagers wandering around. Relieve too the max!

Keramauk, where Hutan and Orang Sungai lives only a few distant from the nearest wide River.

If you’re interested to visit here. Yayasan Sabah do provide a place to stay for those who are interested to have a lil bit of adventure get into Central of Sabah.

I realize most of the villagers are locals. Orang Sungai (Dusun and etc), some of them used to have a awesome life in KK City or Sandakan before but they decide to go back to their own land and have a simple life where they originated from. I’m very touch with their stories.

Settlement House in Keramauk.

Most of the Settlement house are belongs to Yayasan Sabah, most of the workers are local from Sandakan, Tuaran or even KK work for Yayasan Sabah. Yayasan Sabah are the one who redesign the whole kampung area in Central Sabah. 40 years ago, there’s no road access into this village. The only way you can get into Karamuak is via Kinabatangan River. Back those days, By Boat it takes about 3 months to Reach Sandakan. Imagine that! Even 7 hours drive from KK to Keramauk suda start whining like a baby in the car. HAHA GILA!

No Phone Signal!

If the villagers here wants to contact their relatives in KK or Sandakan. They have to drive all the way to Tongod town to get a proper Coverage. In Karamuak, you can throw your mobile phone into the Kinabatangan River and feed the crocodile or some say feed the dragon. Tidak sampai hati saya mau umban my phone ohh. Thank god I have lotsa reason why I still can use it. I call it my mini-laptop.

The main attraction in Karamuak is the Pyramid look-a-like Mountain (Gunung Tingkar) where the late 1963 Wessex Helicopter wrecked there. And also the wide mini river of Kuala Karamuak where it’s connecting the Kinabatangan River. Experience Sunset in the central of Sabah is one of a kind too. You can know where is Sandakan and Where is Kota Kinabalu by looking at the sun. Interesting rite! Aisehmen~~

You are now somewhere around this area.

Once we reach to the Yayasan Sabah’s Forestry Centre. The Officer shows us the map and point where are we now.

I’m so proud for a moment because I’m now exactly in the middle of Sabah. Out of nowhere, because 2 years ago Im thinking of explore Sabah for my future Photography Project that related with Sabah Map itself.

Kuala Karamuak River, at the end of the junction is Kinabatangan River.

Haish.. Too bad I can’t join the other crew for a boat ride. Because there’s no extra space for me and the Cameraman Assistant. We’re ended up hang out at one of the hut and talk about how hard to make a living as a Cinematographer and also Documentary Photographer.

After the production crew done their work, we take a rest for a few mins and have dindins. After dindins, going up to the hill and the production crew continue their work and me continue as a the behind the scene photographer.

One of the herbalist try to show off their skills in Kulintangan. Until I myself, mezmerize how the nenek play Kulintangan. I give it a try! I started to like it..

Me and Nenek while she playing Kulintangan.

Anyone knows where can I play Kulintangan or join Sabah’s Traditional Music Orchestra in KK? I want to be the Kulintangan Boy!

That’s all about Karamuak, Tongod. I wish to visit there again for personal project. Document the villagers there and take some traditional portraits.

Can any NGOs or Sabah Tourism or Ministry of Art and Culture willing to give me a grant to do this stuff? I do this not for myself, for the future and also for the people..

Extra Stuff by Me (Video Footage I took in Keramauk, Tongod), Enjoy! :